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What Is a Consumer Contract in Business

Latest update: November 24, 2024. Page URL indicates original publication date; meanwhile, times change and the updates continue.

Businesses Know Consumers Blindly Sign Anything and Everything

The former title for this article was Beware Unfair, Fraudulent, Scam Consumer Contracts - Just Say No. This page is a cautionary note. Unethical consumer contracts are the ultimate definition of SWAG (Stolen Without a Gun).

Consumer contracts are not your friend.

Contracts and the Law and You and the Judge

"But, your honor!?!" I said to the judge...

Judge, “You signed a contract.”

Me, “You mean that paragraph at the bottom of the application form?”

Judge, “Yes.”

Me, “But every bank in the country has that clause.”

Judge, “What clause?”

Me, “The sentence that says I’ve read and agreed to their charter; that I’ve read and agreed to all their bylaws; that I’ve read and agreed to all their rules and regulations. All of that stuff would be a stack of paper from the floor to the ceiling; and they wouldn’t even have copies at the branch for me to read anyway.”

Judge, “I know. But anything you sign is a contract.” (He is right of course.)

Me, “But every financial institution in the country has that clause.”

Judge, “I know.”

Me, “But if we don’t sign, we can’t get a checking account, savings account, credit card account or loan anywhere!”

Judge, “Sucks, doesn’t it?”

Me, “What do I owe?”

Judge, “Well, let’s see what they made up... Yep, that’s what you owe.”

The above story is fictional, but versions of it happen in real life thousands of times every month. That is why I never do business with national banks or credit card companies. Finding a local credit union is the only way to go; they have versions of the same clause, but most of them are not thieves (see referenced article).

Needless to say, unethical consumer contracts don't just apply to national banks. In fact, there are credit card companies out there that are 10 times worse than any bank. Cable companies are another example, which is one reason why customers are leaving them in droves. Some cellphone carriers are also less than scrupulous, their contracts sometime include a clause stating you have to pay them even when they don't provide the agreed upon services. And then there is the worst of the worst, otherwise known as private sector contracts having to do with anything medical.

Warnings and Alerts About Consumer Contracts

You have no civil rights when you blindly give them away by signing a multi-page, fine print contract without reading it. This happens all the time. The days of trusting an entity just because they are a large corporation or an established business are long gone. This is especially applicable as to credit card companies, medical entities, financial institutions, auto repair entities, and pretty much any and all other service-related entities. Corporate greed is the rule, not the exception.
Read the contract. If it’s too long for you to read and understand at the time, don’t sign it. If any of the print is too small for you to read, don’t sign it. If there is anything in it you don’t like or understand, don’t sign it. If it's incomplete, don't sign it. If you don't know what you are doing, don't sign it.
By definition anything you sign is a contract; whether it be just a single word, phrase, sentence, paragraph, or a hundred page document. Whenever someone tries to get you to sign something, it is for their benefit, not yours.
Reading a contract will give you an education; not reading a contract will give you an “adventure”.
Unethical contracts and incompetent/unethical civil laws victimize more people than all legally defined criminal activity combined. It is the ultimate definition of SWAG (Stolen without a Gun).

Beware Consumer Contracts

About Class Action Lawsuits

A class action lawsuit can result when a significant number of consumers have been victimized. Sometimes the company made an honest mistake, a defective product for example. Many times, however, class action lawsuits can result from SWAG consumer contracts or other behavior so egregious that it can't be covered up anymore. Personally, I think some of these cases should be in criminal court as opposed to civil court. If you happen to notice a class action lawsuit you are eligible to join as a member, you might as well sign up for it. You may not get much in the way of compensation, but at least you will get something.

Side note: I am not an attorney. Any attorney, legal firm, or government agency who specializes in defending/protecting/helping consumers and patients are welcome to post links to their websites in the comments section below. Any attorney or legal firm doing consumer-related or patient-related class action lawsuits are also welcome to post relevant links.

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InBoxDollars - A Regretfully Negative to Neutral Review

Latest update: November 24, 2024. Page URL indicates original publication date; meanwhile, times change and the updates continue.

InBoxDollars is a website that will pay you for performing various online activities. It's a great concept, but there is a major flaw for most people.

Long story short, InBoxDollars has no respect for your time. Just my opinion. My average earnings are less than 10 cents a day. It is just not worth it. They do seem to be an honest, legitimate, open and aboveboard site. The only problem is the time spent versus the income earned.

Some Examples:

The average pay to watch a video is one cent per video.
Many times you will spend 10 minutes qualifying for a survey, only to be told you are not qualified and end up earning nothing.
The average winnings for the three levels of InBoxDollars Scratchers are {1 cent, 2 cents, 1 cent (I've quit this level)}, {3 cents, 3 cents, 4 cents, 3 cents (I've quit this level)}, {5 cents, 10 cents, 8 cents, 5 cents, 5 cents, 10 cents, 5 cents, 5 cents, 9 cents, 5 cents, 8 cents, 5 cents, 5 cents, 5 cents, 9 cents, 5 cents, 9 cents, 5 cents, 9 cents, 5 cents, 5 cents, 9 cents, 5 cents, 8 cents, 8 cents, 5 cents, 5 cents, 8 cents, 5 cents, 5 cents, 10 cents, 9 cents, 9 cents, 5 cents, 5 cents, 5 cents, 9 cents, 5 cents}. And it can take a long time to qualify to play the scratchers.

The lowest cash payout threshold I could find was $15.00 to be sent to you via PayPal. InBoxDollars paid me $5.00 to sign up (I don't know if that is still going on); but accumulating the additional $10.00 to reach payout will take you a long, long time. I haven't reached payout yet. It will be interesting to see how that goes; I'll post an update if and when that happens.

In fairness, I should mention that InBoxDollars has a lot more than just surveys, videos, and scratchers. They have 1% (and more) cash back deals all over the place. They have cash back signup deals with third parties all over the place. They have shopping deals all over the place. They have printable coupon deals all over the place. They have various other offers all over the place. They will pay you to do web searches. They will pay you to take pictures of in-store receipts. They will pay you to read emails. They have free games.

My only problem with all of the above is that pesky time versus income issue. If you think you can do better than I'm doing, here's their link: InBoxDollars.

InBoxDollars is also accredited with the Better Business Bureau. The BBB classifies InBoxDollars as belonging to the following categories: Internet Service, Online Shopping, Internet Marketing Services, E-commerce, Market Research, Entertainment, Surveys, Gift Cards, and Coupon Services.

Frequently Asked Questions

Is InboxDollars safe and legit? They have an excellent reputation as to safety and legitimacy.
How much does InboxDollars pay to watch videos? It used to be 1 cent a video. Wasn't worth my time. I've noticed I don't see the video option anymore. Apparently is was not worth anybody else's time either.
How can I earn fast money? Not at InBoxDollars.

I had planned to frequently add to this FAQ list, but I've finally lost interest. I should add that despite some of my criticisms, I was still fond of some parts of the site.

Some Random Notes and Updates

Note. This has happened to me more than once. Some of the survey collectors that InBoxDollars uses are collecting some or all of the survey answers from us that go beyond simple qualifying and then after collecting the answers will say we didn't qualify and don't pay us. I do not know if InBoxDollars is aware of this. This practice is ripping off both the InBoxDollars website and those of us taking the time to do the surveys. This has happened frequently enough that it has become a deal-breaker for me as to doing anymore surveys.

Note. There are other parts of the InBoxDollars website I still like and continue to interact with. But with the survey option being dead to me, I no longer consider InBoxDollars a viable source of any meaningful income. Despite this article's title and that the surveys part is dead to me, I have strangely become somewhat fond of this site.

Update. I received an email from InBoxDollars informing me that one of their members made over $3,000 last month. I'd kinda of like to know how they did that...

Update. I do like their "PaidEm" emails. Doesn't earn much, but some of the ads are interesting.

Update. I tried the surveys again; 3 or 4 of them; truly epic fail due to previously stated reasons; do not waste your time.

Update. I finally got bored with the PaidEm emails. The remuneration for reading the PaidEm emails and for doing searches just isn't worth it to continue. Oh well, at least the whole experience has been somewhat interesting. This is probably my last update.

Well now, we have another update. I suddenly got an email from InBoxDollars informing me that I'd earned $0.96 from a cash back. This was triggered by my recent online grocery shopping. This is the result of the InBoxDollars "Billy Button" extension I added. The email says it's pending. We will see how that works out. Another update. I received a second email saying I have gotten another grocery shopping cash back in the amount of $1.10, also pending. The earnings did finally show up in the InBoxDollars account. The adventure continues...

And another update. The "Billy Button" seems to have stopped working. I've made several more grocery purchases and the "Billy Button" says it's activated, but nary a cash back to be seen. Oh, well.

Another update: I've given up and removed the Billy Button extension.

Update 2024

I've claimed $15 of the $20 I've earned. We shall see.

Update 2024

InBoxDollars does honor their payment obligations.

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Senior Citizen Discounts Best Lists of Retail Stores, Restaurants, Travel, Online, Services, More

Latest update: November 24, 2024

Although businesses don't advertise it, if you're a senior and you ask for a discount, there may very well be one.

Welcome! This article provides a list and directory of deals and discounts for seniors age 50, 55, 60, 65 and over. Usually, no sort of membership nonsense is required. However, none of these national chains or other places are likely to have any prominent signs advertising any senior discounts or deals. The company websites also usually do not tell you what the policy is. You will have to ask.

The best way to obtain the discount is to just say, “Hi, I understand you have a senior discount?” Note the inflection: a question, instead of a statement or demand. An inquisitive inflection is much more likely to elicit cooperation from the young person behind the counter.

My Experience With Discounts

I walked into Taco Bell and asked what the deal-of-the-century was for this week. They said there was none.

I knew that; they grinned; I grinned. I ordered five tacos. I informed them, "I'm a senior, so I'll take the usual 100% discount."

They said, "That would be nice...." More grinning; they were fine; I was fine; just having fun. I wandered out the door with my tacos. Yep, the discount was there. Of course it wasn't the 100%, but the senior discount had indeed been applied.

Ten Percent Is Worth It

Many seniors may think a 10% discount is not worth the bother, but this is usually just a matter of perception. If instead of the deal being stated as a 10% discount, it had been stated as “Pay No Sales Tax for Life!”, everyone of all ages would be all over it. Yet the 10% discount would almost always be the better deal, leastwise in the US. Europe and Canada are whole different stories. They have what's called a value-added-tax (VAT); that tax is usually way over 10%. Are senior discounts applied to VATs in such cases? I have no idea. No matter; again, wherever you are, always remember to ask concerning senior discounts.

Know of a Senior Discount or Deal?

If you know of a senior deal or discount not listed here, we would like to know about it. Post it in the Comments Section below or drop us a note. We will include it in the next page update.

Sales and marketing is a fluid force; deals and discounts come and go. There is also the situation where many businesses are franchises; in many cases, the franchise owner is the decision maker as to whether a senior discount will be available at a particular location. If you discover a senior discount listed here is no more, please let us know. The good news, what with the continuing population shift, even more companies will probably begin initiating discounts for seniors.

A sad update. Rumor has it that many senior discounts have disappeared since Covid and now the rampant inflation. The only way to find out which ones still exist is to ask. Then again, what with the new Value Deals competition heating up, maybe some of the senior discounts will come back. Who knows?

Restaurants: Senior Discounts and Dining Deals

Applebee's gives a 10% discount (reduced from 15%) to seniors age 60 and over who have the Applebee's Golden Apple Card.
Arby's gives 10% off for ages 55+.
Back Yard Burgers has a 10% senior discount for your order at participating locations, reasonably certain the age is 55 and over..
Burger King has a 10% discount for ages 60+, and additional discounts on coffee and soft drinks. As of Oct. 2015, though, Burger King may be like Denny's, i.e., some stores give discounts and some don't.
Chili's is 10% off for ages 55+.
Denny's gives 10% off for age 55+. They will make it 20% off if you are an AARP member. As of 2014, each franchise owner was making his/her own decisions regarding this, so your results may vary. A menu just for seniors is also offered.
Dunkin' Donuts does 10% off for ages 55+. Or a free donut (doughnut) when buying coffee.
Farmer Boys has a 10% discount, age demarcation unknown and franchisee optional.
Golden Corral senior discounts are reported as random and varied.
IHOP is 10% off for ages 55+. There maybe even be a second, optional menu for seniors.
Jack in the Box has a 20% beverage discount for seniors age 55 and over. Though again, as of August 2013, the Jack-in-the-box discount may not be a sure thing.
KFC will give you a free small drink with a meal if you are 55+, although again, it’s reported some KFC's will and some won’t.
Long John Silver's has various discounts for 55+. Depends on location, so your results may vary.
McDonald's has discounts on coffee and soft drinks for the 55+ crowd.
Old Country Buffet is said to have discounts for seniors, 55+.
Outback Steakhouse has a 15% senior discount, age demarcation unknown.
Panda Express is reported to have a senior discount. Unfortunately, there is conflicting information. This is probably a franchisee optional situation.
Perkins Restaurants may have a special menu for deals for seniors, 55+.
Roy Rogers Restaurants gives a 10% discount for seniors, age demarcation unknown.
Sonic gives a choice of free beverage or 10% off for folks 60 and older.
Subway is 10% off for ages 60+; though at least occasionally, a store owner will deny the discount, either because they are uninformed or because of individual franchise policy.
Taco Bell is 10% off, apparently up from the former 5%; plus free beverages. Age requirement is 65 and over. Discount may be franchisee specific.
Wendy's is 10% off for ages 55+, though at least one Wendy’s in Topeka, Kansas gave a free drink in place of the 10% discount. Not known if this is the new policy or a franchisee-specific incident.

Senior Discount Transportation and Motel Deals

Alamo Car Rental has discounts and deals ranging up to 25% for AARP members.
Alaska Airlines has 10% off for seniors, ages 65+. It is now reported to be 50% off. Other fees, however, are unknown. Airlines like to wiggle out of things; call first to ask about the discount and fees before making plans or booking.
American Airlines has discounts and deals for seniors 62 and up. Various discounts can reach up to 50% for non-peak periods (Tuesdays through Thursdays). Other fees, however, are unknown. Airlines like to wiggle out of things; call before booking.
Amtrak have a 10% to 15% discount for seniors. But they have a whole bunch of restrictions to go along with it.
Avis car rental company has discounts and deals ranging up to 25% for AARP members.
Best Western motels have a 10% discount for seniors age 55 and over. Unfortunately, it is not a discount one can count on. The Best Western website says, "Not available at all Best Western® Hotels and Resorts and is subject to availability at the time of the request."
Choice Hotels owns Sleep Inn, Comfort Inn, and a bunch of others. The Choice Hotels website claims an "up to" 10% discount for seniors. However, one must make a reservation in advance through their Choice Hotels website or via their Choice Hotels phone number and specifically mention the senior discount for folks who are 60 or older. Also, beware of their use of the phrase: "up to.".
Southwest Airlines is reported to have various discounts for ages 65 and up. But the usual warnings apply: call first, find out about other fees, etc.
United Airlines does provide discounts for seniors 65 and over. The amounts, locations, and other restrictions are all over the map (pun intended). A reminder to meticulously read their online menus and/or ask their customer representatives pointed questions.
U-Haul doesn't appear to have senior discounts. However, their website has a bunch of hoops you can jump through to get dozens of other discounts.

Note: Look for special senior menu options on their websites. Unlike other industries, travel and hospitality companies are actually prone to advertise their senior discounts.

Retail Store Discounts and Deals

Glasses

Glasses are expensive and serious business. When selecting a store, it wouldn't hurt to do a "StoreNameHere review scam" search to see what complaints there are about them. And it could be unwise to have the exam done at one place and the glasses made at another; if there is a problem, each will point to the other as being the cause.

LensCrafters is reported to have a 30% discount for AARP members. Frankly, I'd find out the prices for everything first before mentioning the discount. Then spring the AARP card on them before taking the exam and see what happens. It wouldn't hurt to check frames and lenses prices at Walmart and Sears first for comparison.

I had an unprofessional experience at Pearle Vision a couple decades ago; I was verbally assaulted the second I walked in the door and asked about their prices. I immediately realized the franchisee or store manager was extremely defensive about something. I cleared out after about 30 seconds and never did find out what his problem was (in retrospect, maybe it was because they had the highest prices in town, not sure).

Interestingly, both Pearle Vision and LensCrafters Franchises are owned by an Italian eyewear conglomerate called Luxottica Group S.p.A.

Clothes

Goodwill gives 10% off one day a week (your day may vary). A 2015 report states for at least one store the age is 55 and the day is Wednesday.
Kohl's does 15% off on Wednesdays for folks 60 and over.
Ross Dress For Less, also known as Ross Stores, has an Every Tuesday Club for customers age 55 and older. Just sign up at the customer service desk to receive a discount card. Folks with the discount card receive a 10% discount for in-person purchases made on Tuesdays.
The Salvation Army thrift stores give up to 50% off for folks 55 and over.

Grocery Stores

Grocery stores appear somewhat resistant, but it is worthwhile to ask. Your results will definitely vary.

Albertsons is said to be 10% off, but you will have to work for it. If the first employee you ask doesn't know the answer, ask the store manager as to days and dates, and whether the discount applies when 55, 60, etc.
Farm Fresh has a 5% discount on Tuesdays and Thursdays. These are probably their slowest shopping days, thus the discounts. Ages 55 and over.
Fry's Food is reported as requiring a VIP card to qualify for any discounts, card valid only the first Wednesday of the month.
Grocery Outlet (western states plus Pennsylvania) gives a 10% discount to people 55+ on Tuesdays and/or Thursday mornings, at least some stores.
Hy-Vee (Midwestern states) offers a 5% discount on Tuesdays and Wednesdays. Definitely varies by location and the age demarcation may be 65.
New Seasons Market, located in parts Washington, Oregon, California. Wednesdays have a 10% discount, no doubt the slow shopping days thing.
Piggly Wiggly. Each store is independent. It is rumored some locations may have senior discounts. Availability, types, age requirements, percentages, other parameters are unknown and probably constantly vary.

Haircuts

Great Clips has $3 off for haircuts. Ages 60 and up.
Super Cuts has $2 off for haircuts. Ages 60 and over.

Pharmacies

CVS doesn't have any senior discounts per se. But you do want to get their Extracare Card. If you run the card through the red machine at the front of the store, a great deal sometimes shows up now and then. And do give them your email address; they will rain all sorts of worthwhile discounts on you; sometimes the emails become excessive, but you can always unsubscribe.
Costco pharmacies are exempt from store membership requirements in most states.
Rite-Aid has 10% off on Tuesdays. And there is 10% off on prescriptions. Age requirements unknown.
Walgreens generally charges the highest prices in town for everything, especially in the pharmacy department.
Walmart pharmacies are always worth checking out.
Most all pharmacies will deliver.

Phones

If you don't happen to know what Lifeline is, you definitely want to check that out no matter who your phone company is. If you qualify, you will save between $200 to $300 a year on your phone bill. You qualify based on income, not age.

AT&T has a $30/month cell phone plan for seniors ages 65+, currently called the Senior Nation Plan.
Jitterbug has a $15-a-month cell phone plan for users 50+. However, I'm not sure about these guys. Their phones seem expensive and there are complaints as to their quality.
T-Mobile has recently added senior discounts, details vary as to types and amount of service.
Verizon Wireless has a $30/month plan for seniors ages 65 and over. However, if you have a Lifeline landline (Verizon or Frontier), and want to use it to get on the Internet, it could be well worth your while to drop by the Verizon or Frontier website and see what DSL deals they are offering; no age restrictions, and DSL is plenty good enough for most situations, including streaming videos (depending how close the substation is to your residence).
Burner Phones. Inexpensive and free cell phones and cell phone plans are one complicated mess to research; especially when federal and state subsidies are mixed in. If your situation doesn't qualify or is not feasible for the federal/state free cell phone and plan program(s) and you only want the cell phone for occasional use; perhaps simply going to Walmart or wherever and getting a prepaid, pay-as-you-go burner phone is the answer. Needless to say, read and understand everything on the packaging first. Actually, why not just shop for the critter online? First find what looks like the best deal on whatever retail store website, then go to that brand's website and see what they have to say. Once you've found what you want, buy from whichever site is best.

Movie Theaters

AMC Theaters gives up to 30% off for ages 60 or older. AMC specifically says, "If you're at least 60 years old, you've probably seen a lot of great movies in your lifetime. And if you haven't, get started now with discounted tickets on Senior Day." I underlined that phrase because it makes me wonder if they only show old movies on that day.
Landmark Theaters have discounts for folks 62 and older. I do believe this is the first senior discount I've seen anywhere that wasn't rounded to a 5 or 10 age increment . The amount of the discount is unknown.
Marcus Theaters have $5 admissions for Friday matinees, seniors age 60 and older.
Regal Theaters/Cinemas 30% discount for seniors ages 60 and over may be a thing of the past and was only available for some performances; ask. There may be some senior discounts when buying certain snacks and drinks.
Showcase Cinemas. Turns out that Showcase Cinemas (also known as UCI Cinemas) is an international company theater chain. $7 Admissions to seniors beginning at age 60.

Local Area Discounts

Many local area senior discounts are mentioned in the Comments Section. Try a browser search (Ctrl-F) for your state, town, or establishment; you might get lucky. And if you happen to know of a local area senior citizen discount, by all means comment about it. You never know who you might be giving a helping hand.

More Financial Tips for Seniors

Some of the savings here could actually run into the hundreds of dollars. And not just for seniors.

Utility Company Discounts

It is imperative to drop by your utility companies' websites, particularly your gas, electric, and phone companies. They almost certainly have various discounts available, some examples:

low income assistance discounts
energy savings discounts
energy efficiency discounts
seasonal discounts
time-of-day discounts
medical discounts

There could be other discounts. Once you are signed up, you get significant savings month after month without any additional work on your part.

If the discount info is not readily available via the website menus, use their search box and enter the bulleted phrases above. If that doesn't work, then do the searches directly from your favorite search engine, for example type in: "low income assistance" YourUtilityCompanyName.

About Cable TV Companies and Their So-Called Senior Discounts

Most cable companies claim to have senior discounts, but won't specify the details. You have to call and ask; probably not much or an outright scam. Frankly, I ditched cable years ago and get everything for free or next to free on the internet. There's even the technology to have it display on your TV screen.

And a Browser Tip

Desktop typing "Ctrl" and "+" together will increase the text size in your browser's window on your screen. You can do Ctrl+ more than once to keep making the text larger. Doing Ctrl- will shrink it back down. Doing Ctrl0 (zero) will reset everything back to "normal." For mobile, there is scaling.

A Karma Note

Please share this page so as to help others. The more people who are knowledgeable, the better off we all are.

And a sincere thank you to all who have previously contributed to this article in the past.

Suggestions from Comments Section

[An Update. Due to a website hosting platform change, the 84 comments that previously accompanied this article on the other site were lost. However, I am retrieving them from archive and incorporating most of them directly into the new version. Many are quite useful. Edited for punctuation and grammar. Do be advised that the comments are not vetted. As always, the secret is to ask.]

The Newer Comments

We have indeed received one.

The Older Comments

Multiple commenters state that Big Lots does not give discounts.
Commenter, Andrea, said Back Yard Burgers' senior discount is 10% your purchase at participating locations.
Commenter, Susan, said Outback gives 15% and Roy Rogers 10%, but you have to ask.
Commenter, Cheryl, said: Bealls of Florida offers a 55+ senior discount on Monday of every week both in store and online.
Commenter. Carolyn said: Kroger does not give 10% any longer.
Commenter, Mary, said: I Had No Idea There Were So Many Places That Gave Seniors Discounts!?? Thank You So Much For Giving Me The Tools To Make My Life and The Lives Of Others So Much Better. Thank You - Mary Sutton
Commenter, Cathy Decker, said: Love the companies whom realize our retirement income needs to be respected, AWESOME.
Commenter, rickwhaley, said: Good info, thanks! Village Inn does senior discounts, but you have to ask now. At least in Nebraska.
Commenter, Glenn Stok, said: This is awesome! I'm eligible for many of these discounts already and I didn't even know it! Thanks for writing about it.
Commenter, Christina said: Walgreens does offer 20% off on first Tuesday of each month unless it’s a holiday, then it’s the second Tuesday.
Commenter, Sarah, said: You know, I finally got used to the idea that I'll be 50 in a couple of weeks and WOW would be eligible for senior discounts. Then, just to find out, the age has raised for most of the discounts that my Mom was eligible for at 50! grrrrrrrrrr.
Commenter, Theresa Ast, said: Great Hub with great information for people. Thanks! I have found that Good Will Stores (used books, clothing, housewares, furniture, toys) gives a good senior discount (over 55). Check with your local store, because each store chooses a particular day of the week - Mon, Tues, Wed., etc.
Commenter, HolyTerror57, said: Awesome, awesome, awesome. I just found the Jitterbug cell phone plan! And I just signed up for their e-mail subscription. Thank You So Much!
Commenter, Julie Baldwin, said: It's amazing being 55+ and the discounts that comes your way.
Commenter, Debbie McCoy, said: If a chain offers a senior discount, but the franchise is not; call or write the chain to see if the franchises must offer the senior discount as part of their franchise contract. Many have to follow franchise guidelines set by the chain and could lose their franchise if not. It's worth it.
Commenter, Brenda Areledge, said: Your article is very informative, I use discounts daily. I have a Golden Buckeye Card which is for Ohio residents; this card gives many discounts. I get 5% off at Ace Hardware. Then the usual 10% at restaurants. DQ dairy queen, Pizza Hut, Ranchers Roast Beef, plus most of the ones you already listed. I always ask, sometimes embarrassing the people I am with. I can afford to skip the discount, but to me, if the discount is there, then one should take it. Nice write.
Commenter, Natalie Frank, said: Great article! I'm not there quite yet but will be soon enough and have bookmarked this page for future reference.
Commenter, Angie, said: Lakes Entrance Airbnb, Australia. Gives Seniors Discounts and free dog stay for 3-day stay or longer.. Price on booking, but don't forget to ask. Water views, private gardens, wheelchair accessible, parking outside your accommodation. Sleeps up to 7 adults. Onsite massage. Call 0413669071; Victoria, Australia. Place to stay.
Commenter, Christine, said: I was asked at Taco Bell yesterday if I am over 55 because that is when their senior discount kicks in (I am 60).
Commenter, Cindy, said: TJ Maxx in Florida only, 10% off on Mondays for 55+.
Commenter, Liz Pacheco, said: Coppi's Organic Restaurant offers 25% off all night every Monday for seniors 60 and up. They're located at 3321 Connecticut Ave NW, Washington, DC 20008.
Commenter, Stacie L, said: Good info. Kroger used to give senior discounts on Thursday every week, but cut down to the first week in the month where I lived in Kentucky. My local grocer gives senior discounts on Wednesdays. As you stated, a customer must ask. I found out my AAA membership gives many discounts as well. The companies never ask if you are a member.
More comments from the previous site are still being retrieved.

*** Money saved is worth more than money earned. Money saved is tax free. ***

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I first published this article at another website on 10/07/2011. However to keep the information current, relocating to websitewithnoname.com was best. This copyrighted article has served people well for years. The updates continue.

Medical Privacy Issues - The Internet, Employers, Insurance Companies Are Not Your Friend

Latest update: November 28, 2024. Page URL indicates original publication date; meanwhile, times change, and the updates continue.

Beware Medical Discrimination by Employers and Insurance Companies

I'm retired and don't care, but younger people should very much care; especially don't post anything medical on social media or anywhere else online. Potential employers routinely check social media accounts these days.

Potential employers will discriminate against you and not hire anyone they suspect will increase their medical insurance rates. This practice is supposed to be illegal in many states, but quite bluntly that doesn't stop them. They simply claim there was some other factor that caused them to not hire you. It's just a fact of life. So if you have any medical issues, keep them to yourself. Don't even tell your real-world friends. If you have to tell, then make it only the immediate family and those you trust; and remind them about the posting-on-line caveat.

And certainly, protect your kids in this regard. Definitely don't mention any of their long-term medical problems online.

HIPAA Medical Privacy Rule

See HHS.gov/... for expanded information. The associated News Room access also has relevant information, particularly as to privacy relating to COVID-19 vaccinations.

And for folks of all ages, don't mention online that you are going to the doctor, hospital, or anywhere else on a particular day. Doing so announces to the world that your home may be vacant for burglars to enter. The internet is not always your friend.

And while we are at it...Never make a doctor's appointment for a Monday or a Friday. Both the doctor's office and the medical transportation will be total chaos; personal experience talking here.

Another note... Pharmacists say don't keep any prescription medications in the bathroom medicine cabinet. I'm guessing this has to do with both heat and humidity issues; especially heat destroys the active ingredients. Same probably applies to OTC medications and vitamin pills. Makes me think that having prescription medicine or anything else that is heat-sensitive mailed to you during the summer months may also not be a good idea.

Update. Regarding pandemics, it is a pretty good bet that medical privacy goes out the window during those. If you do happen to be exposed to COVID-19, you definitely do not want to advertise that fact. It is well-known that the disease can have future and very long-term effects. Employers and medical insurance companies won't hesitate to discriminate against you as a result.

- End of Article -

Best Banks NOT!! Save Money With Credit Unions Instead! - Free, No Fee Checking, Saving Accounts, ATMs, etc.

Latest update: November 28, 2024. Page URL indicates original publication date; meanwhile, times change, and the updates continue.

Money saved is worth more than money earned; money saved is tax free. Credit unions and certain other financial institutions are much better than national banks and credit card companies. Pay fewer, lesser, and no fees.

Forget: Chase Bank, Ally Bank, Wells Fargo, Bank of America, and all the rest of them. They all may claim they have free checking and savings accounts, but there is invariably fine print in their conditions that will cause you grief.

A special mention about Bank of America. "Fees" are their middle name. Why any consumer would do business with them is beyond me.

People often ask,

What is the best bank in a given location?
What is the best bank for a specific kind of customer?

Rephrasing the question to "What is the best financial institution?" is the way to find what's best.

It is positively amazing how many people put up with all the fees many banks and other financial institutions attach to their savings, checking, and credit card accounts. Those banks and financial institutions will keep on doing this as long as the consumer keeps letting them get away with it. There is no excuse for the consumer to tolerate these kinds of bank fees when there are so many better alternatives available.

Avoid National Banks and National Credit Card Companies

National and local credit unions and local banks are the way to go.

The average consumer should never do business with a national bank or national credit card company. Check out your locally owned banks; even better, check out your local or national credit unions. National debit card companies might be OK: read the fine print.

Customers who have followed the above principles:

Have not paid any monthly account fees in decades.
Have not paid any check fees in decades.
Have not paid any credit or debit card transaction fees in decades.
Have always been paid higher interest on their savings.
Have always paid lower interest on their loans.
Have always experienced the bliss of fewer and lesser fees all-around.

What Exactly Is a Credit Union?

A credit union in the United States is technically a co-op arrangement among members. Those members with money make deposits. Those members who need money take out loans.

The spread between the interest paid to members with savings and the interest collected from members with loans is supposed to be no larger than what will cover the co-op’s expenses.

The covered expenses also enable both savers and borrowers to have free checking accounts, no-annual-fee debit and credit cards, and many other free or lesser fee services. Many countries have these same co-op type institutions; they are just known by different names.

About Credit Union Membership

With banks, you are a customer. With credit unions, you are a member.

It used to be difficult to become a member of a credit union. The usual requirement being you were working for a specific employer. In fact, many times the credit union was actually named after the employer. Many of these credit unions are still in existence today.

Membership requirements these days are much more open. Every credit union has unique criteria.

Credit unions did not come up with the idea of membership requirements. Federal regulations require members of credit unions to have something in common, usually being the mutual employer scenario.

However, other criteria can now be used; just being a member of a certain profession is a good example.

What opened the floodgates is the now current use of geographical location as to what determines eligibility. In other words, are you and the credit union in the same county? If so, congratulations; you are a member. The credit union website will clearly spell out the eligibility requirements to become a member.

f you do not qualify, it is neither their fault nor yours; federal regulations are federal regulations. The good news is your chances of success are fairly high. Worst case scenario is you merely proceed to your local bank instead.

Internet-based financial institutions are also worth checking out, but be very careful and check their reputations and fee schedules with a fine-toothed comb.

The Good, the Bad, the Ugly.

About Your Local Banks and Credit Unions: The Good

Here is the normal fee structure at your good, locally owned banks and credit unions:

There are no membership fees.
There are no annual or monthly credit card fees.
There are no annual or monthly debit card fees.
Savings accounts have no monthly or other fees. A minimum balance requirement of a couple hundred bucks or less is acceptable.
Checking accounts have no monthly fees and no minimum balance requirements. The requirement you have a savings or similar account with a reasonable minimum balance to qualify for the free checking account is an acceptable option. Using the direct deposit option to qualify for a free checking account is not always a good idea; getting slammed with a bunch of fees when you lose your job is not the way to go. On the other hand, qualifying based on direct deposit of your Social Security retirement check certainly isn't much of a risk.
No debit card point-of-sale fees of any kind.
No credit card point-of-sale fees of any kind.
Very minimal or no ATM fees on debit card transactions.
All other fees are less than what you are paying at your current financial institution.

And a special note about credit unions and ATMs. Basically, they've united into a single network as to ATM fees and non-fees. If one belongs to a credit union, you can use any and all other credit union ATMs, and the only fee will be the fee or non-fee that you have agreed to with your credit union. In other words, there's no secondary fee for using an ATM that is not your particular credit union's; any credit union ATM will do just fine. Personally, I have not paid an ATM fee in decades.

About Your Local Banks: The Bad

It should be noted some local banks can be even more obnoxious than your national banks. Local banks are just like any other locally owned business. Employee attitude will directly reflect the personality and attitude of the owner(s) of the bank.

Fortunately, the bank’s fee structure is very often a clear indication of the bank’s attitude towards the general public. Ridiculous and excessive fees? Go elsewhere.

About Your Local Credit Unions: The Ugly

Credit unions are well-known for being the better deal. As such, there are bankers-to-be who come out of the woodwork to take advantage of the better reputation credit unions have.

The methodology to do this is not difficult. The banker-to-be simply opens his business via and under the credit union regulations and rules. Then, as far as interest rates and fee structuring goes, they run it like a bank. There is a credit union in San Francisco that is positively famous for this. There is another credit union in Riverside County, California that I would also avoid like the plague. So just because an institution calls itself a credit union doesn't mean you are home free. Do check out their fee schedule and interest rates relative to other institutions.

The Search

Needless to say, your location will vary.

How to Find Your Local Banks and Credit Unions

Finding them is not hard to do. The usual Yellow Pages perusal and/or an internet search will turn them right up. And it should be noted there are excellent national credit unions as well.

As to finding the good ones, you will need to check their website. Find their fee schedule and you will usually know what you need to know. If they do not have a fee schedule online, then that is a possible red flag. If your choices are limited, then you may have to make a personal visit to the financial institution and check out their brochures in the lobby.

Those financial institutions having the "glass cage" setup you must navigate to enter and exit the premises should be avoided like the plague. For some reason, there seems to be a strong correlation between "glass cage" usage and the treatment of customers as peasants in general.

You can also find a local credit union, plus all sorts of other worthy credit union information, at the federally run Nation Credit Union Administration (NCUA) website.

You can find all sorts of interesting information about your local banks at the Federal Deposit Insurance Corporation (FDIC) website. They even maintain a public list of failed banks.

Next is the opening of an account. A driver’s license, Social Security card, and a pleasant attitude are all that should be required. If the bank or credit union employee, or the procedures in general, are unusually obstructive; then forget it and move on. If they require you have an account with them for at least six months before allowing you to apply for a debit card, then you definitely want nothing to do with them.

Worthy Internet Institutions

There are worthy internet-based institutions out there. Just thoroughly check their fee schedule; particularly as relates to their savings and checking accounts, and their credit and debit cards. Also, plug their name and the word "scam" into your search engine and see what pops up. If there are pages of complaints, it would probably be wise to avoid that particular institution.

I have never had a problem with PayPal. Unfortunately I recently came across this article: PayPal faces lawsuit for freezing customer accounts and funds. Apparently there is no due process whatsoever; it's probably a good idea to not keep significant sums there.

Only consider doing business with credit unions authorized to display this logo:

NCUA (has all sorts of worthy information)

Only consider doing business with local banks and internet-based financial institutions authorized to display this logo (or other equivalent government signage)

- End of Article -

Selecting the relevant Label menu option provides additional articles.

Sales Tax Overcharges: How to Not Overpay and Report Store

Latest update: December 1, 2024. Page URL indicates original publication date; meanwhile, times change, and the updates continue.

Have you been overcharged on sales tax? Here is a way on how to mentally calculate state sales taxes on the spot and stop being cheated, catch errors, and prevent fraudulent attempts.

Sales Tax - Regressive Taxation of the Poor

Business, Vendor, or Store Overcharging on State Sales Tax?

When it comes to sales taxes, fraud is not that rare of an occurrence. Many times, smaller stores do deliberately overcharge state sales tax. In fact, I’ve seen news reports where even the larger, national chain stores have been caught overcharging sales taxes. And employees in all stores have also been known to make price and state sales tax mistakes as well.

Mentally calculating state sales tax to prevent being overcharged is easy. It all has to do with rounding, no degree in rocket surgery required. You are simply doing a quick approximation to prevent yourself from being a victim of sales tax fraud or simply to prevent being mistakenly overcharged.

[Be advised that this page is US-centric. Canada and most European countries have sales taxes, or a value added tax (VAT) far exceeding 10%. However, if the VAT tax is close to another round number, one can still make this method work.]

Here are the four main premises of this page:

Most combined state, country, city sales taxes do not exceed 10 percent, but most sales tax totals are reasonably close to 10 percent.
Most thieves are greedy and will exceed the 10 percent amount.
Even my dog can mentally calculate 10% of something.
Even my dog can mentally add 10% of something to something.

You do not need any of these...

How to Mentally Calculate State Sales Tax – Some Examples

How do I calculate sales tax from a total?

The best way for this tutorial to demonstrate mentally calculating state total sales taxes is by giving examples. In reality, you already know how to do this. You just may not know that you know yet. So, let's begin. You walk up to the counter and engage in a purchase which sells for...

$49.99

You round the price to $50.
You calculate the 10% as $5.
You add the $50 plus $5 to get $55.
If the counter person wants more than $55, welcome to the world of sales tax fraud and overcharges.

Other Examples...

$29.99

You round it to $30.
10% is $3.
Total is $33.
If the final price is over $33, welcome to the world of sales tax fraud and overcharges.

$5.99

Round to $6.
10% is $.60.
Total is $6.60.
Anything over $6.60, welcome to the world of sales tax fraud and overcharges.

$79.98

$80.
$8.
$88.
Over $88, cheated.

It should be noted that honest mistakes do happen. You will find out soon enough if the overcharge was deliberate or accidental.

Is It Sales Tax Fraud?

What to Do When the Person at the Counter is Overcharging You on total State Sales Tax

This depends on your mood, time constraints, the amount of money involved, the store and neighborhood, etc. Below are some typical scenarios and what one can do in each situation; followed by what you can do after the fact.

You Don't Care About the Amount Involved

Say nothing.
Pay it.
Say nothing. Or say the routine "Thanks."
[Optional] Locate and take one of the business cards offered on the counter.
Leave.
Once outside, note the date and time.
Never go back.
Maybe tell everyone you know.

You Do Care About the Amount Involved (Option One)

Don't pay it.
Say nothing.
[Optional] Locate and take one of the business cards offered on the counter.
Leave. Be advised however, the counter person (probably the owner) will immediately know that you know he was trying to cheat you. And you took one of his cards... And state sales tax fraud is a very serious offense...
Once outside, note the date and time.
Never go back.
Maybe tell everyone you know.

You Do Care About the Amount Involved (Option Two)

Politely point out the total is incorrect and explain why you think so.
If the counter person reviews and corrects the error:

Pay it.
Call it a day.
Maybe or maybe not give the place another chance in the future.

If the counter person denies, disputes, or otherwise argues with your statement...

Don't pay it.
[Optional] Locate and take one of the business cards offered on the counter.
Leave.
Once outside, note the date and time.
Never go back.
Tell everyone you know.

Reward for Reporting State Sales Tax Fraud?

How to Report Stores and Other Businesses Who Overcharge State Sales Taxes

Not only are you doing a good deed for society, but you might also make some money in the process.

Find your state's website dealing with all things sales tax.
Find where to report what you experienced. As an example, in California the California State Board of Equalization would be where to go. California does not pay a reward the last time I checked. However, reporting the fraud is still a good idea; wouldn't you like the thief (employee or owner) removed, so you can have an honest, local place to shop? Reports can be made anonymously and will still be investigated.
For other states, determine if you might get a reward. Tell them about your experience in detail, including date and time. Give them all the information on the business card. If you don't have the store's business card, that is ok; just be sure the store name and address you are reporting is correct. And don't worry; they're not going to just take your word for it. They will probably send the equivalent of a few "mystery shoppers" to the store to confirm. When they have absolutely verified and proven it is not an isolated incident; only then will the hammer fall on the deserving thief.

More than likely the store location is leased. With any luck, the thieving employee or owner will soon be gone; hopefully replaced with a new, honest employee or business.

A separate note as to state sales tax billing errors by business vendors. There it is in writing; it's a pretty good bet that this is an honest mistake, and a simple phone call will fix it. While you're at it, you might want to review the previous invoices from this vendor.

A July 2020 Update
If you do online shopping, you will want to read this site: Dark Patterns.

April 2021 Update
Depending on your state, retailers can be subjected to both criminal and civil penalties for frequent overcharging of sales tax. There can even be class action suits against the larger retailers.

October 2021 Update
Another holiday shopping season approaches, chaos expected to be even worse than last year. Here is a very worthwhile .gov page about sales taxes for Californians: California Buyer’s Guide to Tax.

- End of Article -

Fighting Fraudulent and Inflated Medical Bills - Federal and State Websites Help Patients Fight Dishonest Charges

Latest update: December 1, 2024. Page URL indicates original publication date; meanwhile, times change, and the updates continue.

These websites will actually help you when a medical entity victimizes you with inflated or outright fraudulent medical bills and/or denied insurance claims.

This includes hospitals, general doctors, specialists, X-ray places, CT scan or PET scan centers, blood test places, and pretty much any other medical facility or entity that engages in illegal or unethical conduct. Emphasis is on illegal, unethical contracts and on illegal, unethical billing practices. Also includes resources regarding insurance company misconduct or for when a Medicare, Medicaid, or Medi-Cal case worker makes a mistake or acts in bad faith. Sooner or later, you will need the information on this page.

Medical Federal and California (and other) State Government Websites That Will Help You When an Insurance Company or Service Provider Victimizes You – Also Some Worthwhile Additional Information

Ways to Deal With Our Country's Corrupt Private Sector Medical Industry

Patients' Rights and Financial Help Resource List

A list of resources regarding the rights patients are legally supposed to have. Many provide complaint forms and will actually help you. All listed websites are government or other well-known, reputable resources. All links go directly to the website's patients' rights page and/or patients help page. Needless to say, all are free.

MedlinePlus, from the U.S. Library of National Medicine.
HealthCare.gov, your rights under the Affordable Care Act.
Medicare.gov, your Medicare rights.
The Medicare Beneficiary Ombudsman. , a resource for filing complaints, grievances, appeals, etc.; in other words, a place to rat out medical service providers. The page also promises to provide information, help, assistance, and other services. The page is apparently also the starting point for when you need to deal with Medicare's own shenanigans.
CMS.gov, Centers for Medicare & Medicaid Services. The particular link I provided has to do with Consumer Information & Insurance Oversight. The page may not especially look it, but these guys are your friend. Sometimes, out of the blue and without any action on your part, they will send you notices a particular medical bill from a medical service provider or insurance entity is not valid and that you don't have to pay it. This website is definitely worth prowling around when you have the time.
California Department of Public Health (CDPH), the go-to page for filing medical complaints in California.
Office of the Patient Advocate (OPA), another go-to page for filing medical complaints in California.
CDSS is another California site that may be able to help you, especially as applies to local office Medicaid (Medi-Cal) obstructions.
Bing. For folks not in California looking for their state websites, simply do a search for:
"YourStateNameHere patients rights help site:.gov" (without the quotes and be sure to include the exact "site:.gov" syntax).

If a link suddenly stops working, it means the website moved that particular page. Let me know in the comments section and I'll find and post the new location.

Some Tips for When Dealing with the Medical Bureaucracy

(being involved with an insurance plan network limits some of these tips)

The Medicare 1-800-633-4227 number is open 24/7. They have always been friendly, professional, and helpful. Do give them a break and check their website first. You might not only find the answer to your question(s) but also discover other worthwhile information relating to your situation.
Referring doctors make paperwork mistakes all the time. Whenever possible make sure the medical treatment specifications match what the Medicare white book says. This is mostly applicable to preventive services. Not kidding here, make sure the doctor's instructions exactly match what the Medicare website and yearly white book specifies. I've personally saved myself one financial disaster already by doing this.
Never walk into a medical service provider's diagnostic center without the proper Medicare COPD 5-digit code included on the referral paperwork.
Referring doctors make paperwork mistakes all the time (did I mention that already?). Always verify the accuracy of the Medicare code on the paperwork before going to the specialist's or medical service provider's office. Confirm with Medicare that the Medicare code number is valid for your circumstances and procedure(s) and that Medicare will approve and pay for the procedure.
When referred to a specialist, sometimes a COPD code isn't provided; the specialist adds the code after the fact. Your only defense against this is having diagnostic information showing the necessity of the visit to the specialist, e.g., CAT scan shows potential malignancies in lungs, thus being referred to a pulmonologist makes medical sense. If the specialists uses the wrong code(s) after the fact and the claim is denied, don't just give up. Work with Medicare and the specialist to get the mistake straightened out and resubmit the claim.
If not involved with an insurance plan network, the referring doctor does not not always know if the referred specialist or medical service provider takes Medicare, Medicaid, Medi-Cal, etc. When you walk into that referred specialist's office or medical service center for the first time and have identified yourself, always ask first:

Does Medicare accept you and do you accept Medicare as full payment, secondary insurance covering remaining balance?
Does Medicaid//Medi-Cal/Etc. accept you and do you accept Medicaid, Medi-Cal, etc. or whatever other supporting insurance applicable in your situation as full payment?

If any part of their answer is no, leave immediately. As a Medicare beneficiary, you have the right to go to any Medicare specialist or service provider center you wish, unless you are on an insurance plan where one must stay within the plan's network. Either way, tell your primary, referring doctor what happened and they should be able to take care of it.

An important note. If a medical entity financially victimizes you or is trying to victimize you happens to be a referral from your doctor, first check with Medicare via their website and/or phone calls and find out exactly what is going on. If that doesn't clarify or fix the situation, then tell your doctor's office all about it. They might be able to fix the problem with just one phone call to the offending medical entity; not so surprisingly, your doctor's office will often be quite successful at this.

A personal note. That medical contract you are always forced to sign is basically a blank check allowing the medical entity to do whatever they want. You've given them the right to do anything and everything their little hearts desire and then to bill you for whatever insurance doesn't cover. For that reason, I always print directly above my signature the following in caps:

"ONLY PROVIDE INSURANCE COVERED SERVICES ONLY"

If the medical service provider then refuses you as a patient, immediately inform your primary physician that referred you. If that doesn't solve the problem, i.e., your doctor being able to find a different service provider in the area; I'd personally let Medicare, Medicaid/Medi-Cal, and any other involved insurance/government entity know all about it. I would think they would all want to know about a medical service provider that turns away patients simply because that patient only wants those services that are covered by insurance. Who knows? They might even be able to help you.

An update (Medical Hack(?)). Someone sent me this. I do not know if it is true or not. It sure would be interesting to find out:

Medical Life Hack?

I'm continuing to look for other government medical websites that help patients when it comes to money issues. If you happen to know of one, please mention it in comments. I'll be happy to include it on the list. Federal sites are preferred, but sites specific to your state are also welcome.

Here's an article from CNBC about fighting a fraudulent medical bill: More than 30% of Americans have medical debt: What you need to know about negotiating a medical bill.

- End of Article -

Negative Customer Review re: MasterCool Evaporative / Swamp Cooler - And Problems

Latest update: December 4, 2024. Page URL indicates original publication date; meanwhile, times change, and the updates continue.

Another summer is on the way. Here is an unfortunately negative product reliability customer review of MasterCool evaporative aka swamp coolers, plus water cooler pump installation and replacement instructions.

It should be noted that water cooler pumps are the least of MasterCool's poor quality control and reliability problems.

The primary purpose of this page is a review of the MasterCool and same-company other brands of evaporative aka swamp coolers. The detailed How-to-Replace-Water-Cooler-Pump segment was included simply because it is such a frequent problem with any and all evaporative swamp coolers. The pump failure is a side issue, it is the other poor quality standards and reliability issues of MasterCool evaporative aka swamp coolers that resulted in the publishing of this negative review. These issues are addressed immediately following the water cooler pump replacement segment.

MasterCool window evaporative cooler.

My personal experience and what this review specifically is referring to is the MasterCool MCP44 Evaporative Cooler. However, the same company that makes MasterCool also makes the Champion and Essick brands of evaporative swamp coolers. If a company makes a poorly manufactured one brand or model, it's a pretty good bet their other brands are of equally poor quality. That's a decision only you can make. At minimum, you definitely want to at least avoid MasterCool.

The first problem was the failed water pump, it lasted a little more than a year. If you are only here for the review, you will find the first paragraph immediately below the cooler pump picture informative; then might as well skip past the numbered list to the next section where things really get interesting. There are also pictures after the review showing what the inside of the MasterCool window evaporative swamp cooler looks like.

About and How to Replace or Install the MCP44 Series MasterCool Evaporative Water Cooler Pump (instructions will probably work equally well with many other brands and models)

Model ESK5500 Cooler Pump.
There is additional information and pictures of the MasterCool evaporative swamp cooler with the back panel removed following the review.

I acquired the new MasterCool MCP series evaporative swamp cooler unit a few years ago. The water pump lasted a little longer than a year. If you think getting the back panel off the evaporative cooler unit is a major project, just wait until it's time to correctly put the thing back on. There sat the water pump; "Made in China" it duly informed me. Water pumps are the known weak link when it comes to evaporative swamp coolers, the manufacturers know this and so try to make the component fairly easy to replace. Here is the procedure, don't forget to check out the additional pictures and warnings following the main review.

Read the entire list and check out the additional pictures and information a few times before beginning the actual step-by-step pump replacement process. You will then have a pretty good idea of the overall procedure and there will be fewer surprises. In other words, now that you know the hazard points, things will go a lot quicker and easier. In fact, once that back panel is off, the whole procedure will pretty much be intuitive. All the information and pictures make it sound a lot more complicated than it really is. "Check list" might be a better description than "step-by-step".

Check the electrical info on the replacement water pump and plug into a wall socket for a couple seconds to be sure the new pump works. Note if the new pump already has a protective screen wrapped around the bottom of it.
Unplug the entire unit from the wall socket and turn off the water feed.
Read the manual. Among other things, it tells you how to remove the back panel and about the water hose you need to disconnect at the top and inside of the unit before you can completely remove the back panel. The additional pictures further down this page have more info.
Drain/siphon water from tray.
Very carefully retrieve the water-protected water pump electrical power cord from the enclosure. Definitely peruse the additional pictures and information further down the page before attempting this, otherwise you might accidentally unplug the cord while it is still in the protected enclosure. If that happens, retrieval of the inside cord could be a major problem. Once the plugin part is reached and extracted, do NOT unplug yet.
Unbolt and/or unscrew the clamps/brackets/etc. that are holding the pump in place.
Pull off the water hose from the pump. There may or may not be a clamp you have to undo first.
Remove the still plugged in old pump and set aside elsewhere on the tray. If no new screen was provided with the new pump, retrieve and clean the filter screen wrapped around the bottom of the old pump.
More than likely, the entire bottom of the unit is filled with peeled paint and other debris. Now is a good time to clean up and get rid of all that. You'll have to move the old pump around while doing this, maybe place it on top of the bracket. Do not unplug it.
Bring out the new pump. It will also be made in China, apparently no other options are available for this unit. If needed, wrap old screen around new pump as it was on the old pump.
Place the new pump where the old pump originally was.
Make sure the water hose, electrical cord, and bracket(s) are all completely untangled from each other. Review pictures.
Unplug the old pump. Do not let go of the cord coming from inside of the housing, otherwise it might slip back inside; you do not want that to happen. Plug in the new pump. Reinsert electrical cord back into the water-protected location. Don't reattach plastic cap yet.
Reconnect the water hose.
Position everything as you want it to be and attach pump to all the previous bracket and other connection points.
Check tray. Remove all tools, parts, rags, the old pump if it is still laying there, and everything else that doesn't belong.
Turn the water feed back on and confirm the water level rises to the level you wish it to be, give it at least 15 minutes. The higher, the better; but not above the overflow drain height. Adjust float if necessary.
Time for the test. Unhook/Pull away the water hose from the plastic holders on evaporative swamp cooler and make sure the hose is pointed at the ground and well away from the pump and tray. The absolute last thing you want to do is spray either of those pumps with water. Plug evaporative swamp cooler back in the wall socket; turn the pump on for several seconds to check that everything works. Give the fan a couple seconds as well. Turn everything off and re-unplug the cooler.
Push the water hose back into the plastic holders on the swamp cooler. Review pictures and accompanying information. Reattach plastic cap. Give everything one last, good look over.
Time to reinstall the back panel. Brute strength and ingenuity will be required to get that thing setting back on top of the tray. Reconnect the hose at the top. You should be able to get your hand in there; grab the rubber hose; and force it back to the top of the tube. Twist and turn the hose as needed to remove any kinks.
Time for more brute strength, ingenuity, and persistence. You will need to lift the panel about an inch or two above the tray; line it up with the sliders on the sides of the cooler; then shove panel flat against the cooler and pull down, hooking the panel back onto the sliders. Multiple attempts will probably be required. When there are no gaps on the sides and between the tray and panel, it probably means you succeeded. I didn't bother putting the two screws back in, that panel wasn't going anywhere. Recheck the water feed valve is still on.
Plug the unit back in the wall socket; ponder that switch panel for a moment before reaching for it... Check the back panel that all the pads are getting wet. If they are, then it looks like you were successful in reinstalling the back panel correctly. Good luck.

If the water cooler pump had been the only incident, I would not have written this negative review. It is what happened next that pretty much made this review mandatory.

The Day the MasterCool Died...

Everything worked fine for another year or two. Then came that fateful morning...

It was going to be a hot one, temps in the 90's were on the way. I turned the water pump on to soak the pads as usual for five minutes before turning on the fan. The little, green light glowed benignly, and the water pump whirred happily.

I then went back and turned on the fan. The fan started up. Then the whole unit suddenly shut down. The fan. The pump. The switch lights. Everything.

I tried again. Everything shut down again. I tried different combinations of turning on the various switches. Self-shutdown every time. I tried using the remote instead. Same results.

I somehow sensed and knew I was already doomed. But I went through the motions and checked the house circuitry and fuse/switch box six ways from Sunday. There were no problems; that cooler was getting uninterrupted power.

I tried messing with the switches again, same results. Then the symptoms changed. At first, the pump and the fan worked fine when each was turned on alone. But whenever I turned the second one on, that's when the whole system would shut down.

Suddenly though, now with each attempt, the switch lights would flicker on and off at random for a few seconds before shutdown occurred. In other words, the lights would start doing a strange, little dance; water pump and blower fan sometimes automatically responding accordingly, sometimes not.

As for checking for loose wire connections, chip creep, or anything else a non-expert might be able to fix; forget it. The switch panel circuit board location was completely inaccessible.

I'm standing there looking at the thing after it had done its little dance and shutting itself off for the 30th time or whatever. Then MasterCool decided it was time to perform the coup de grace to any remaining hopes of repair. It turned itself on. That's right. The unit started itself, all the lights happily flickering back and forth for several seconds with the fan and pump sometimes joining in, and then once again shutting itself down . That control circuit board was not only toast, it was unsafe.

"And that truly is indeed that," thought I. I unplugged the unit for the last time.

I'm sitting at my desk, pondering my next move, when I happened to glance down and notice the back page of the owner's manual (printed in China by the way). It proudly informed me the Essick, Champion, MasterCool family of evaporative swamp coolers are designed, assembled, and serviced in the USA. What they don't mention is all the components were made in China or elsewhere.

As far as I'm concerned, lying by omission is still lying. I put the odds at 99.9% that circuit board switch panel was made in China. Even if it wasn't it was still a low quality, poorly manufactured component no matter where it was made. And you can bet Champion, Essick, MasterCool brands all use the same supplier(s). That's when I decided to write this review.

Back page of MasterCool manual.

This page is just my opinion. However, evaporative swamp coolers are an expensive proposition. Please do the homework and research before making that final decision. Suddenly having your cooling system malfunction during a hot summer day is not a pleasant experience.

Side note. Here's a video review (opens in new tab or window) from a new buyer of the MasterCool MCP44 series brand. He has both positive and negative things to say about it. He also mentions one very serious flaw. Basically, every insect in the neighborhood will end up inside your home; he'll tell you all about that. I'd wondered where all those moths and gnats were coming from, I even had an indoor mosquito. Now I know.

I would avoid MasterCool evaporative swamp coolers at all costs. And since Essick and Champion are made by the same company with the same poor-quality standards, I would seriously try to avoid those as well. Unfortunately, there seems to be some sort of monopoly situation in play. Other brands are hard to find. If anyone can recommend another brand, there are probably a whole lot of people who would very seriously appreciate hearing about it in the comments section.

An Update. A contractor recently told me how to get the front panel off to access the circuit board(s). Basically, you scrape off the plastic at certain points (four, circular, indented, perimeter) and the screws are underneath.

[End of Review. Pictures follow.]

Here Are Some Pictures of What You Will Find When You Remove the Back Panel of the MCP44 Series Evaporative Swamp Cooler

There are two more screw holes at the base. Both were covered with silicon dry gel.
When I removed the gel, no screws were present. Your results may vary.

Once the screws are removed, slide the back panel up off the side slots (remember about those side slots, they'll be your nemesis when reinstalling the panel) and pull panel away from the cooler just a little bit. Do not try to remove the panel yet, the water hose is still attached. Using a flat edge screwdriver will help pry/pull the thing off. Won't be that difficult.

Success. The panel can now be removed. Brute strength and ingenuity will be required.

Welcome to the inside of the MasterCool evaporative swamp cooler.
Note the water hose running along the length of the left side, it is easily detachable and re-attachable to the three plastic holders you see. You'll be doing that when you do your quick test at the end.
The two pumps you see in the tray are the water pump and purge pump. Note the two electrical wires running from the pumps to the square, black hole at the bottom-left of the fan housing.
At lower-right, on the outside, is the water feed.

Where the pump wires go. That black, square aperture in the previous picture was originally covered with the white, square, plastic cover you see. You will need to remove the two screws and plastic cover. These three items are prime candidates for getting lost, so I put them in my empty, front pants pocket.

Now comes the risky business part. You need to fish those wires out of that hole. Do it slowly, carefully, and gently jiggle the wires whenever feeling any resistance. Pulling the wires too hard will unplug them while they are still inside the housing. You do not want that to happen.

You will eventually end up with the two plugs on the outside. Keeping in mind the warning in the first set of instructions, pull out the old cooler pump plug and plug in the new one at the appropriate time and as described.
Reinsert the wires back into the housing; and adjust everything the way you want it to be. Then finally put the plastic cover and two screws back on the electrical access aperture.

Everything reattached and ready to go. Time to do the test as described in the first segment.

After the test, refasten the hose back into the plastic holders. Check entire length for kinks.

A side note picture of the floater, controlling the water level in the tray. Slightly bending the floater rod up or down will change the water level accordingly.

A side note, example picture close up of how the water feed and valve might be connected to the water supply. Configurations vary.